On The Political Concept, Cultural Background And Social Functions Of The Chinese Tunic Suit

Two, the origin of the Chinese tunic suit.

The academia has not studied too much about the Zhongshan suit, and even has little discussion on the Zhongshan suit itself.

Therefore, the discussion on the origins of Chinese tunic suits is not yet conclusive.

　　有观点认为中山装是孙中山先生在河内筹组兴中会时，为了节省外汇，在一家广东籍服装商人黄隆生店内，授意黄先生按南洋“企领文装”设计缝制的;另有人认为，中山装是由军装改成的，孙中山居上海期间，将一件从日本带回来的日本陆军士官服送到一家他经常做西服的“荣昌祥”(另有亨利服装店一说)西服店，让老板以此为基样，设计一套具有中国特色、符合中国国情的服装; 最近，上海大学社会科学学院李坚副教授提出了新的观点认为：中山装的诞生与宁波籍红帮裁缝密切相关，第一款正式的中山装是由红帮重要人物王才运根据孙中山的要求与1916年缝制而成的(在西服进入中国后，中国的西服裁缝被称之为红帮)。

All kinds of statements have their own basis, and they all have certain reasons.

In terms of form, Zhongshan suit does have some similarities with Nanyang's "corporate dress" and Japanese "student clothes".

There is no refutation of the origin of the Chinese tunic suit.

In my opinion, the Chinese tunic suit is the product of the combination of "traditional Chinese dress" and "western style clothes", which are influenced by the traditional Chinese dress concept.

First of all, Western-style clothes and other foreign clothing have formed the Chinese people's initiative to accept and choose the new things of foreign clothing on the visual effect and the main body feeling. Compared with the traditional Chinese clothing, Western-style clothes are more or less dominant in fashion trends, wearing time occasions, social feedback results and so on.

Therefore, many residents in big cities, especially those outside the country and overseas students, have strong subjective acceptance of Western clothing, that is, they have initiative in their choice.

This is a major feature of modern China.

Therefore, Chinese costume will also be influenced by foreign products. There is no doubt about it. Moreover, Sun Zhongshan's acceptance of Western goods and his understanding of himself are the same.

However, under the premise of the traditional Chinese costume being impacted, the traditional Chinese idea will not disappear, and the design of the Chinese tunic suit still has traces of the influence of traditional culture.

Because the birth environment of Chinese tunic suits is a strong cultural background of traditional culture.

The Cultural Anthropological Explanation of the great cultural background is: "the whole way of people's behavior and way of thinking in a given area is manifested through the creation of spiritual wealth, whose structure and function are constant and cover a wide range, thus forming a cultural atmosphere and cultural orientation with great influence."

When the cultural nature of clothing is placed in the general cultural atmosphere, there is a large cultural background of clothing.

That is, the cultural meaning of clothing contains rich content, deep and solid historical accumulation, and penetrating power, and has a decisive effect.

In terms of Chinese tunic suit, the form of Chinese tunic suit itself is influenced by traditional Chinese culture and traditional ideas.

On the neckline, from the tight fitting neck, collar and wind buckle of Zhongshan suit, it is distinctly different from the open and extroverted features of Chinese suit. Chinese Confucian culture has the characteristics of humility and introverted character, and the tight collar of the Chinese tunic is the best embodiment; Jiang Jieshi even defines the closed collar as the "strict rule" standard.

It is now that there is still a strict demand for Chinese tunic suit, that is, to close up the fashion buttons and not to open the neckline at a quick pace, it will be neither fish nor fowl.

In the political concept section of the Zhongshan suit mentioned earlier, Sun Zhongshan changed the three bag of western suit to four bags, which was endowed by Jiang Jieshi with the four dimensional meaning of founding the country. The four dimensions were "ritual, righteousness, honesty and shame". In Confucian culture, "propriety, righteousness, honesty and shame" are the essence of the doctrine of the mean and the middle road; and in the view of Chinese aesthetics, the four pairs of pockets are balanced and symmetrical.

The lower part of the bag is an elastic "Piano bag". Sun Zhongshan used to hold books and other articles to show his "never forget the virtues of reading".

In terms of color, the Chinese tunic suit has two kinds of black and white, summer is white, other seasons are black, and later it develops into other colors. But one thing, the colors of the Chinese tunic suit are never too bright. On the one hand, the Chinese tunic suit is needed for the occasion of the official dress of the Republic of China, but fundamentally speaking, it is influenced by the Chinese mentality, temperament and middle way.

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